The end of this cross-country odyssey is now in sight. Today, I’ve wound my way from Gander through the Terra Nova National Forest, then east along the shoreline of the Bonavista Peninusla. The route has been dotted with quaint little fishing communities nestled along the shoreline of Bonavista Bay, places with such intriguing names as Tickle Bay.
I was taken on a short side trip to the hamlet of Keels, on the north shore, where I had my first encounter with one of Newfoundland’s many moose. It popped its head up from a gully as I was driving past, then climbed up onto the shoulder, seemingly unconcerned by my presence or my occupants. There was the typical flurry of snapshots before it ambled on, searching for munchies.
The road to Keels was rough, giving me several good jolts, but I pressed on to our destination, which was comprised of a general store, several colourful frame houses, some erected above the rocky terrain on poles. There were several local attractions noted on the welcome sign, including the Devils’ Footprint, a series of rocky outcrops that time and the sea and chiseled into unique shapes, something akin to layers of grainy wood. Such rugged beauty, yet so picturesque.
Mayor Betty Fitzgerald of Bonavista
My lunch stop was in the historic town of Bonavista, the place where John Cabot landed in 1497. The British explorer, in search of a shorter route to Asia and its highly prized spices, instead found a different treasure – a seemingly endless supply of cod. For the next 200 years, European vessels fished the sea off Bonavista. The community was settled in 1654 and pinned the livelihood of its residents on the riches to be found in the sea – some of the best cod fishing in Newfoundland.
The mayor of Bonavista, Betty Fitzgerald, has an unparalleled passion for her community, eager to share her knowledge of this town with visitors. I was honoured to transport Her Worship around the area as she pointed out sites of interest. The Ryan Premises, for example, is a national historic site officially opened by Queen Elizabeth II in 1997. The complex, which consists of five restored buildings, gives visitors a peek into the saltfish industry of the early 19th century. There are all kinds of artifacts from the era, as well as informative and interactive displays detailing the changing techniques used by cod fishers, as well as the key role played by women in the salting of the fish. There are also knowledgeable guides on staff that are keen to explain in detail and answer questions about the Premises.
Mayor Fitzgerald also wanted to have me see the Matthew Interpretation Centre, which includes a full-scale floating replica of Cabot’s ship, the Matthew. It was built by local craftsmen in this town of about 4,000 and gives visitors a real-like look at the vessel that brought those adventurers to this site centuries ago.
Full-scale floating replica of John Cabot’s ship, the Matthew. It was built by Bonavista craftsmen.
As the fishing industry has declined, Bonavista has refocused on a new industry – tourism. The town has been making a concerted effort to restore the many historic buildings that dot the landscape – and the mayor says those initiatives are now paying off as more and more travellers make it a must-see stop on their visit to The Rock.
The lunch stop turned into an afternoon exploring the historic sites and natural attraction of the area, but fortunately I only had to make short jaunt to nearby Port Rexton, where I’m bunking down for the night at the cosy Fishers’ Loft Inn before completing the final leg of this adventure tomorrow to the most easterly point of Canada in St. John’s.
Sea Caves Dungeon Provincial Park